My trip to La Paz in Bolivia ranks highly (pun intended) when it comes to thinking about the most inspiring cities I’ve been to. La Paz is the world’s highest capital city, and therefore is also the capital of Bolivia. I just LOVED the whole quirkiness of lofty La Paz. It’s a city like no other. Ugly concrete lego blocks make this an eyesore nestled high into the Bolivian mountains. You struggle to breathe as you walk up and down streets in the downtown area, but most of all this place inspires you. It feels like another world. Here are MY top 5 things to do in La Paz. Please note that I’m not an everyday traveller and these are not most people’s top 5, But remember, this is my blog, hope you enjoy it!
Here’s my Top 5 things to do in La Paz, Bolivia:
1. Visit Estadio Hernando Siles, the highest national football stadium in the world:
Visiting football stadiums and watching football is a big passion of mine and I attempt to implement it into my travels as much as I can. If there’s a live match on, I want to be there. If there’s football on TV, I’ll stop to watch. Yes, visiting the football stadium in La Paz should make a footy fans top 5 for this city.
This stadium, Estadio Hernando Siles is the HIGHEST national football stadium in the world. I got to see it from the outside, from the inside and I stood on the centre circle. I sneaked my way in! Quite simply phenomenal. FIFA have even banned Bolivia from playing there before due to the intense high altitude. Bolivia are hard to beat at home, and have beaten Argentina 6-1 and Brazil 2-0 here over the years. Their glory years of 1994 may be behind them, but if you’re a football loving traveller get this on your list!
Highest national football stadium in the world
2. Witches Market/Mercado del Hechiceria:
The witches market in La Paz is on a hill and not too touristy so it’s worth a trip. I enjoyed chatting to the ladies selling souvenirs there.
I bought a green hat, some iron on flag patches for my jumper and some Inca Cola. One of the main attractions at the witches market is dried Llama Phoetuses, which are used as lucky charms by the Bolivians. A charming place. Here’s my post on it:
3. Plaza Murillo (“Yellow Square”):
Even this high up, guns and government combine to add history to what I called “Yellow Square” (that is NOT the real name for it – I just based it on the colour of the buildings and the fact it sounds like Amarillo). Get your fix by walking around the square, known as Plaza Murillo where you can see the Palacio Legaslativo, Palacio Presidencial and the Cathedral all together – there are guards manning the Palacio Presidencial and bullet holes in the concrete brick work. Keep your eye open for guys wearing hot woolen hats offering to clean your shoes!
4. Fake Zebra Crossings:
The locals of La Paz have a sense of humour. Everyday people dress up as fake zebras and act as a “zebra crossing” through the manic busy streets of La Paz. This is the only city I have ever seen this in. Go on – let those human zebras let you across the road. What remains a mystery to me is how they earn money from it…
5. Wild Rover, the world’s highest Irish Pub:
Despite claims from Paddy Flaherty’s in Cuzco, the Wild Rover in La Paz is actually the highest Irish Pub in the world. Located at an extremely lofty 3,600 metres above sea level, this pub has an immense vibe. You can let your hair down and relax – the crazy arching streets outside seem a world away as you drink Pacena and Bock to your heart’s content. Live football, a picture of George Best on the wall and some Irish staff make this a great place to relax and party. It doubles up as a hostel, so you can also stay there.
My trip to the Wild Rover – the world’s highest Irish Pub
Do you know what the best thing is about my top 5 things to do in La Paz? They’re all FREE. You have no obligation to buy a beer when visiting the Wild Rover, nor to you need to spend a penny to see the Witches Market!
Of course, La Paz offers a host of other things to do such as San Pedro Prison and the views of the city from afar. Many travellers to La Paz also do the really touristy things like get a “plane to the jungle” at Rurrenabaque and do the “death road to Coroico” and those are two things I didn’t do – probably not just the touristy aspect but the price and the timescale didn’t suit. I already bunged Potosi and the 3 day Salar de Uyuni tour into my travels in Bolivia, before boarding a bus in La Paz direct to Cuzco, where I began the Inca Trail. La Paz is a massive sky high city and I just loved it.
Here are a few of my La Paz videos:
Llamas Phoetuses in Witches Market:
Zebra Crossing in La Paz:
On the pitch at Estadio Hernando Siles, world’s highest national football stadium:
In the world highest Irish pub, Wild Rover in La Paz:
the Zebra program is govt sponsored for recovering drug addicts and alcoholics. Something like giving them a positive purpose. They are remarkably cheerful performing, the children like them, and the drivers actually obey them, which they don’t do the rest of the time when no one is looking. They show up sporadically through the city but surprisingly not usually when children are coming and going to school. They make it safer for pedestrians and help the traffic flow, which is usually gridlocked by the selfish attitudes of the drivers. I believe there is a sanctuary/school kinda place for the Zebras in El Alto, up on the mountain ridge that surrounds the city.
Hi Phil – thanks for the comment. I actually didn’t know that! It’s a cool quirky thing to check out in La Paz for sure. Safe travels. Jonny
Well these days you could add a ride on the Teleferico to that list!
Hey Harry – serious?! Wow – I had no idea. I was in La Paz in 2010 and loved the city. Safe travels. Jonny
[…] trip to La Paz while backpacking in Bolivia would have been incomplete was it not for a visit to what is a cauldron of world football – […]
[…] La Paz is a stunning city. Situated at an extreme altitude, and seemingly built endlessly in the middle of mountains, the city is also an extremely busy one. But one that oozes culture and ropes you in. I loved La Paz, and even stopped there twice on my trip round South America. A must visit in La Paz is the Witches Market. Known locally as Mercado de Hechiceria, this small market is situated on poky, steep streets near Santa Cruz. Santa Cruz street which itself is laden with many and various shops including a host of football shirt shops. The football shirt shops. I checked for Northern Ireland, Bournemouth and Glentoran shirts to no avail. Clothes in Bolivia are cheap, colourful and well made. I stretched my budget to only a hat however, as my bag was laden with clothes as it was. A shopper’s paradise, and the woolen green hat that I bought cost me just 2 US Dollars. Purses, wallets, ornaments and chess sets amongst the countless nick nacks and souvenirs available. These types of things can be found everywhere in La Paz, but there are hoardes of them near the Witches Market. As a souvenir buyer, you can knock yourself out here, in the area near Plaza San Francisco – a large church sits there on the main road – Avenida Mariscal Santa Cruz (which runs into Avenida 16 de Julio – also known as el Prado). A lot of gifts. Bolivia is probably the most colourful nation I have ever been in. The locals are dressed flambouyantly in various colours, regardless of whether they are rich (or more often than not) poor. The first sign that we are actually in the Witches Market are these dead llama phoetuses. They are everywhere! Basically there is an old Bolivian saying that every house or home in Bolivia should have one of these buried under the porch or entrance. So people buy them and that’s what they do with them. More llama’s phoetuses. They come in various sizes and shapes, as well as prices. They can be picked up for quite cheap. I didn’t touch them mind you! Witch craft and clair voyance are also apparent in the Witches Market. You can get your fortune told or hear something spooky. But mostly in Spanish. And mostly they only do these things for the locals. I collect a flag badge from every country or prominent place I visit. I picked up a Bolivia and USSR one here – had wanted the old communist USSR badge despite not having been to Russia pre Berlin Wall collapse. I actually cannot remember the story behind this stuff, but it’s traditionally Bolivian and was openly for sale here. Wine and soft drinks, including the ridiculous Coca Colla – perhaps the biggest rip off or copy of all time, but one that makes sense given that Coca leaves are the second main ingredient, after water. Bolivian liquers. Tried a few of these on nights out (Maca Bull and Pachamama). There is also one (far right) made from Coca leaves, but I stuck to Coca tea rather than its alcoholic counterpart. Wearing the hat I bought near The Witches Market in La Paz. This photo was taken by a street vendor opposite Iglesia de San Francisco. I relaxed there and sipped a hot clove/peach drink called mocochinchi. More information on this excellent drink here: http://www.boliviabella.com/mocochinchi.html The day I was there was scorching hot and not too busy. I caught the Witches Market at a good time. I would totally recommend La Paz as a place to visit, and definitely a place for souvenirs. If I go back, I’ll be buying some cheap clothes! What – Witches Market/ Mercado de Hechiceria Where – Calle Jiminez and Linares (between Santa Cruz and Sagarnaga), Central La Paz, BOLIVIA Transport Used – Walking of course – 20 minutes maximum from the hostel Strange Currencies – Bolivianos and Centavos (often called Bs) Nationalities Met – Bolivian (at the market that is) Things I Bought – A green woolen hat, some flag patches, a few local drinks at the nearby stands including mocochinchi. Key Song – ACID WITCH – THE BLACK WITCH: Key Films – 1. THE BLAIR WITCH PROJECT: 2. THE WITCHES (ADAPTED FROM ROALD DAHL): A Few Website Links – http://www.sacred-destinations.com/bolivia/la-paz-witches-market http://www.lonelyplanet.com/travelblogs/112/1721/The+Witches+Market+in+La+Paz,+Bolivia?destId=363126 My Videos – LLAMAS PHOETUSES AND CONVERSATION WITH MARKET STALL SELLER AT WITCHES MARKET, LA PAZ, BOLIVIA: DRINKING FRESCO MOCOCHINCHI IN CENTRAL LA PAZ: Join 15,017 Monthly Readers! If you enjoyed this article and LOVE travel and SAVING money, get e-mail updates from Don’t Stop Living – a lifestyle of travel! (It’s Free) ? Jonny […]
[…] a bag the same size would probably cost about 2 pounds. It was dark already and the lights of La Paz faded. I listened to my iPod and we made a number of stops in the outskirts of La Paz. Soon though […]
[…] will “literally take your breath away!” Situated at a well publicised 3,660 metres La Paz is a place of extreme altitude. A test for your breath, your diet and your travel tales all in one. What shocked me before […]
Just returned from La Paz with my son, who wanted to visit the Salar de Uyuni. Jaded American that I am wasn’t so impressed, to me looked like a huge ice-skating rink. The hours of driving and freezing accomodations were torture.
I loved La Paz, wandering the city. Loved the Zebras. Sorry I didn’t know about the Irish pub, I am Irish-American.
But what is with the street crossing signs, hysterical. Red light counting down seconds, below it green figure RUNNING across street.
Never in New York; if you fell down next thing you would be suing someone because of the sign. NY needs to lighten up.
Hi Geraldine, thanks for the comment and glad you enjoyed some if not all of your trip to Bolivia. The Irish Pub was just a quirky thing to me as it claims to be the world’s highest. I loved Uyuni! Safe travels, Jonny